If you're a traveler from the U.S. or really any region outside of the Middle East, a trip to Morocco might come with some culture shock. It is a popular tourist destination, but there is still a lot to be prepared for when traveling to Morocco. In this post, I'll share what I learned about how to navigate the country and be a respectful tourist while I spent 9 months there.
Transportation
Transportation in Morocco is very different than the U.S. and even many European countries I have been to, but no, you don't need to rely on a donkey to get around! In Morocco, most people do not have a personal car so they rely on a very well-established system of public transportation. This does not mean it is always completely reliable, but you can get pretty much anywhere with a train, bus, or taxi. And sometimes, you'll see some other interesting transportation on the road, like the hay bale truck below.
Train
The train in Morocco is great if you want to go a far distance between the North and South. I am no expert, but I believe it connects with Fez, Rabat, and Tangier in the North, and Marrakech. You can check the routes on the ONCF website, which is the train company. You'll notice the website is written in French, since that is a second national language for Morocco and is often used for official business.
Tickets can be purchased online, on the app, or in the train station. It is a pretty reliable system that might sometimes experience delays, but travelers tend to enjoy it as did I. When you're looking to go to the train station, say "la gare dyal train." It might not be perfect use of language, but that always worked for me in Morocco!
Bus
There are a few different bus systems in Morocco. One is the CTM, a national company that has bus routes to many major cities and towns. It is very official with a website and an app, and you can also buy tickets in the station. Be aware that you have to pay extra for luggage.
Aside from CTM, there is another, less official, system of bus routes that are regional and within the city. In Marrakech and a few other cities, this website is helpful to navigating city bus routes. Otherwise, I can't say too much about these buses because, while I did use them quite a few times, it was always an adventure of walking around, asking people where to find the bus. For example, in Fez I was determined to find the bus to the airport to avoid taking an overpriced taxi. I spent half of a day walking to different bus stations, asking people where the bus to the airport was, until I finally found it. The worker at the stop was very nice to me and we chatted while I waited for 2 hours for the right bus to arrive. When it finally came, he made sure I got a seat. So, even in Fez, the city bus routes are not documented anywhere online. If you are staying a while and are savvy, you might be able to figure out these routes, but I wouldn't rely on it.
Taxi
Taxis are the gold standard of transportation in Morocco. It is a system that looks quite hectic, but is actually very well thought out and organized. There are "petit taxis" and "kabir taxis"- small and big.
Petit Taxis- Inner-City Taxis
Petit taxis will take you anywhere you ask within city limits, except inside the Médina. Each city in Morocco has a specific color, such as red petit taxis in Fez. You'll find them waiting alongside the road sometimes, or you can flag one down. You can have up to four people in a petit taxi. When you get in, sometimes the driver will try to pull a fast one on tourists by not turning on the meter, and then ask for more money than the drive was worth upon arrival. To avoid this, always say "mitro afak" when you get in the taxi, if you don't see them turn it on.
The only exception is when getting transportation from the bus and train stations, and airport. They will usually ask you to pay a flat rate that is very expensive, but pretty much non-negotiable. All of the drivers for that location agree upon the going rate, so you'd be hard pressed to find a lower rate. Just make sure, if there's no meter, you agree upon the price before driving away.
Kabir Taxis- Intra-City Taxis
Kabir taxis have specified routes they take from one town or city to another. Above, you can see my view on a route in a kabir taxi. Each city has specific locations for these taxi stands. In a small town, there will only be one, but large cities can have several. When you arrive to the taxi stand, find the person in a neon yellow vest and tell them where you want to go. They will take you to the taxi and collect your money, which is a flat rate per person. They usually don't swindle tourists, but if a price seems too high beware that it could happen. They'll also charge between 10 and 15 Dh for luggage.
In each taxi there can be 6 people, and the taxi does not leave until all seats have been filled. Usually, this is not an issue, but sometimes you can wait a long, long time before more people come to fill the seats. I think the longest I ever waited was an hour and a half. If you're in a hurry, you can pay for all of the unoccupied seats to depart right away.
When taking these taxis, also be mindful that they usually have a start time that is early in the morning and an end time that is a little past sunset, but each taxi stand can have it's own rules. So, if you need to take a taxi in Morocco, it's best not to plan for travel too early or too late, and if necessary, make arrangements with a private taxi company.
Clothing
Finally, we have a new topic to discuss! In Morocco, modesty is key to being a respectful tourist. You don't have to dress exactly like the locals, but it is important to be mostly covered-up, especially so you don't draw unwanted attention. Men can wear shorts and t-shirts in hot weather. Women can wear t-shirts, but should not wear pants or a skirt that are shorter than knee length. Also, make sure not to wear anything low-cut, and I would recommend against tank tops or crop tops. In warm weather, the key is to go for loose, light materials, and open-toed shoes are fine for anyone. The photo above shows what I wore on a warm day in Marrakech. Women do not need to cover their hair, but bring a light scarf for certain places where it might be expected, which can also be used to cover your arms when appropriate.
Be mindful of anything potentially offensive printed on clothing, and don't overdo it with clothes that exude an image of wealth, especially if you are walking through the city. There may be more private spaces where that is okay, but on the streets with locals, it may be inappropriate. My philosophy when I was in Morocco was, I already stood out because of my appearance, I didn't want to put more of a target on my back.
Harassment
This is a very real topic that must be addressed for traveling to most countries, including Morocco. In Peace Corps training, the female volunteers talked about harassment a lot because it happens quite often. Tourists make easy targets, especially women. Harassment in the form of cat calling is very common, and it is best to ignore it. When walking down the street, avoid making eye contact with men and especially avoid smiling at men. This can seem cold, but these types of body language can be interpreted as an invitation in Moroccan culture. This is also why I recommend dressing modestly, because you don't want to send a signal that could be interpreted differently than you may expect.
Sometimes, harassment can go a bit further. I personally experienced being followed and grazes of hands. The best thing in the situation is just to try to separate yourself from the person. Moroccan people are generally very kind and respectful, so this is not to make you afraid, but it is important to be aware of potential situations and how to handle it. If anyone is more aggressive for forceful towards you, there is always someone around who you can talk to, whether it is a police officer or a bus ticket collector. In a future blog post I will talk about language, and include how to tell someone to stop bothering you, and how to tell someone who can help you that you feel uncomfortable or unsafe.
There is one more topic for harassment I want to address, which is rooted in racism. While I cannot personally attest to these experiences, I learned about them in training and witnessed them on several occasions. Many people would say racism towards black people is very much alive in Morocco. There could also be racism towards people from other backgrounds, but it is not as strong. Many of my fellow volunteers experienced this racism and I was a witness. It was common for people to shout many derogatory terms at them. I can't imagine how painful that must be, but it is best not to engage with people, and remember that the Moroccan people may not know what we know now. As a tourist, it isn't going to be possible for you to change minds and educate people, so avoid heightening the situation by ignoring their shouts.
One one occasion, I was with a group of friends when a man acting on the street, dressed as a clown, tried to touch my friend's hair and then chased after her. We all panicked and scattered at first, but then regrouped and shouted at him to leave her alone or we would call the cops. He did leave her alone. I believe that having local language in our vocabulary helped, so I would recommend learning some key phrases that I'll include in a future blog post. And of course, do a Google search for local law enforcement police numbers where you will be to save on your phone.
Pickpocketing
Like most tourist destinations, pickpocketing is something to be aware of in Morocco. However you choose to carry your items, be aware of your surroundings and keep your valuables close. Like you can see in the photo above, Médina streets are very narrow, making it a perfect place for pickpockets to prey. Don't carry large amounts of money, have a backup credit card just incase, and keep a list of important information somewhere other than your phone (phone numbers, addresses, etc). In Morocco, it is a good idea to keep your passport with you. I would also recommend having your backup identification and a photocopy of your passport in your luggage. These are just some safe practices for traveling abroad, but there's plenty of blog posts that go even more in-depth about safety tips.
Drinking
In Moroccan culture, drinking is frowned-upon. This doesn't mean locals don't do it of course, but it is a lot more discreet and is limited to bars and nightclubs. You can also purchase alcohol in liquor stores that you'll find scattered throughout any city. I am not the expert on this topic, as I only went out a couple of times in Morocco, but here is what I know. In bars, especially if you are a woman, be extra mindful. You might want to avoid "dive bar" type places that will primarily be full of men, where you won't blend in as easily. Instead, try for a night club or a larger bar. Every city will have them, searchable through Google. Some hotels and hostels will not allow you to have alcohol as well, so make sure to check their rules before bringing it back to where you are staying.
Law Enforcement
This is mostly just a disclaimer for tourists that law enforcement looks very different in Morocco than we are used to. Throughout cities you will see police officers with big guns in hand, and it is normal, so don't be alarmed. If you see a government building, which is obvious because it will have guards outside, or just an "official looking" facade with a Moroccan flag, do not try to take a picture. You may be able to ask the guards for permission, but it is best to just take a mental picture.
Religion
Just to say a word about religion, the majority of Moroccans are Muslim. You will hear the call to prayer five times a day, a song in Arabic that is played over city-wide loudspeakers. At this time, shops and some restaurants may close while the workers go to pray. Additionally, mosques can be found everywhere, which are houses of worship. Non-muslims cannot go inside, but it is fine to take pictures. Religion in Morocco is tied to everything. It is part of the educational system, gender roles, eating habits, and even language.
Couples Traveling in Morocco
Dating is another very different aspect of Moroccan culture. Like most places, you'll find that city-folk have more progressive views, but dating is still more private than Americans are used to. Often times, Moroccan marriages are arranged or parents at least have some say in choosing a partner for their child. The younger generation often secretly dates, which many parents are aware of, but tend to deny. PDA is not acceptable in Morocco. In cities like Rabat, you may see couples walking around holding hands or canoodling on a park bench, but this is not the norm.
As a couple traveling in Morocco, our training advised discretion. Avoid touching and especially kissing in public. There may be places where you can sense that it is not a big deal, but it is respectful to locals to abide by the norms. You may also run into challenges with staying at certain hotels, hostels, or Airbnbs. Sometimes, if a male and female book a room together, they ask to see a marriage license upon check-in. Be sure to ask about this before making any reservations, because there are plenty of places that don't ask for marriage certification.
Hammam
Lastly, I want to talk about the hammam, which took me by surprise when I was newly visiting Morocco. Hammam is the place where locals go to bathe. It was created because access to hot water is limited in homes, so the hammam provides a nice steam-filled room with plenty of hot water. You pay to enter, maybe 10-20 Dh depending on location, and bring your own bathing supplies. The twist: it is an open room, full of gender-segregated bathers. You strip down to your underwear (and sometimes less), and set down your plastic stool to sit among the other bathers. No one is shy about it, as they begin bathing this way as children.
As a tourist, you by no means need to go to hammam, as your hotel will likely have hot water. However, if you are looking for a cultural experience, you may be curious to try it out. There were sometimes stares from other women when I went, but I honestly was stared at everywhere I went in Morocco so I was used to that (just try not to return the stares, especially in hammam). This is an experience for the brave tourist. In cities, I've heard that they have private hammams where you and your fellow travelers can be in an individual room, away from strangers. This is an option if you want to try it out, but you don't want to bare it all. You can also wear a swim suit.
In the hammam you use a glove scrubber and a thick, oily solvent to scrub the living daylight out of your skin. The warm steam makes your skin very soft, and you'd be amazed at how much dead skin you can scrub off! Moroccans can spend hours at the hammam, especially if there are also children to scrub. I always left hammam feeling relaxed and my skin was softer than ever, so it is definitely a pampering experience!
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